"I dont' know, I really want to pick you up in the airport, but it'd be hard now. It's pouring down rain, the roads are already bad, the car doesn't start, I'd have to go by motorcycle and public transport. I'd like to see you as soon as possible, but I'm exhausted, plus the extra expense...couldn't you just take a taxi from the airport and then come back on public transport?"
Sarah is supposed to arrive tomorrow in N'Djamena, but with the rainy season and all, I try to excuse myself. Deep down, I feel I should go to meet her though, but she doesn't have to know that!
I haven't decided for sure one way or another, but I get a text message from her later that evening telling me she understands and I should feel free to not come to pick her up, I'll just owe her a ton of back rubs later!
I call Ndilbe, our nursing student who has just finished his 3 month internship and is ready to go back to N'Djamena.
"We leave tomorrow at 5am. Can you arrange some motos for us?"
At 3am, Augustin knocks on my door.
"There's a kid in respiratory distress, can you come see him."
Sure. I haven't been able to sleep anyway thinking about surprising my wife at the airport.
The kid is grunting, wheezing, retracting and has nasal flaring. Severe asthma. I open my office and find a few vials of expired Xopenex that we put in the nebulizer. I tell Augustin to give him some Dexamethazone IM while I hook up the machine.
The kid suddenly comes alive and it's all the mom and I can do to hold him and the mask in close enough proximity for some of the medication to get in his lungs. Despite his best efforts, something must be getting in those tiny lungs as he starts to breath easier. I tell Augustin to start a Quinine drip for malaria, add some Ampicillin in case it's pneumonia that provoked the attack and return home.
I'm too wired now for sure to go back to sleep for a few minutes so I make some egg gravy and toast and finish packing my small backpack, a skirt and t-shirt for Sarah and an army duffle bag to bring back fresh vegetables from the N'Djamena market.
The predawn glow appears. It's cool and humid and a little haze rests across the African plain. Two old Nigerian motorcycles with dim headlights waxing and waning with the speed of the engine and spewing out white, burned-oil-smelling exhaust, limp up to the front gate.
Ndilbe wraps himself up in a turban and we strap on our bags to the back of the motos with old bicycle innertubes.
We're off, with the cool air whipping gritty humidity into our faces.
The road is one long series of mudpuddles with improvised footpaths around most of them extending sometimes into the rice fields. Often we have to just plow through green, muddy water up to midway on the tires. We cross the new bridge and down the other side where the gravel buttress has mostly fallen away with the rains leaving a small middle section carved up with a few metal beams tied together with steel cable barely holding things together. We're through the barrier at the bottom and pass through Tchoua on our way to the hippopotamus lake.
The elevated road through the lake with a central drainage pipe is pock marked with a million ruts carved out by heavy trucks and a billion ridges carved out by the draining rainwater. It's confounded by being made of clay, slickened by the rains making it a bumby slip and slide experience wondering when we'll just slide down into that wide open hippo mouth.
The last stretch before Kelo is completely submerged and we plow our way through and wind our way through the early morning mud streets lined with tiny mud brick shops just yawning a good morning to another day of fasting in this month of Ramadan. A few lonely robed figures stroll through the red tinged early morning fog as we finally hit the pavement and pull up to the "bus station" on the side of the road opposite the air compressor and rickety wooden tables lined with various shapes and sizes of glass bottles filled with an assorted variety and mixture of fuels.
Sarah is supposed to arrive tomorrow in N'Djamena, but with the rainy season and all, I try to excuse myself. Deep down, I feel I should go to meet her though, but she doesn't have to know that!
I haven't decided for sure one way or another, but I get a text message from her later that evening telling me she understands and I should feel free to not come to pick her up, I'll just owe her a ton of back rubs later!
I call Ndilbe, our nursing student who has just finished his 3 month internship and is ready to go back to N'Djamena.
"We leave tomorrow at 5am. Can you arrange some motos for us?"
At 3am, Augustin knocks on my door.
"There's a kid in respiratory distress, can you come see him."
Sure. I haven't been able to sleep anyway thinking about surprising my wife at the airport.
The kid is grunting, wheezing, retracting and has nasal flaring. Severe asthma. I open my office and find a few vials of expired Xopenex that we put in the nebulizer. I tell Augustin to give him some Dexamethazone IM while I hook up the machine.
The kid suddenly comes alive and it's all the mom and I can do to hold him and the mask in close enough proximity for some of the medication to get in his lungs. Despite his best efforts, something must be getting in those tiny lungs as he starts to breath easier. I tell Augustin to start a Quinine drip for malaria, add some Ampicillin in case it's pneumonia that provoked the attack and return home.
I'm too wired now for sure to go back to sleep for a few minutes so I make some egg gravy and toast and finish packing my small backpack, a skirt and t-shirt for Sarah and an army duffle bag to bring back fresh vegetables from the N'Djamena market.
The predawn glow appears. It's cool and humid and a little haze rests across the African plain. Two old Nigerian motorcycles with dim headlights waxing and waning with the speed of the engine and spewing out white, burned-oil-smelling exhaust, limp up to the front gate.
Ndilbe wraps himself up in a turban and we strap on our bags to the back of the motos with old bicycle innertubes.
We're off, with the cool air whipping gritty humidity into our faces.
The road is one long series of mudpuddles with improvised footpaths around most of them extending sometimes into the rice fields. Often we have to just plow through green, muddy water up to midway on the tires. We cross the new bridge and down the other side where the gravel buttress has mostly fallen away with the rains leaving a small middle section carved up with a few metal beams tied together with steel cable barely holding things together. We're through the barrier at the bottom and pass through Tchoua on our way to the hippopotamus lake.
The elevated road through the lake with a central drainage pipe is pock marked with a million ruts carved out by heavy trucks and a billion ridges carved out by the draining rainwater. It's confounded by being made of clay, slickened by the rains making it a bumby slip and slide experience wondering when we'll just slide down into that wide open hippo mouth.
The last stretch before Kelo is completely submerged and we plow our way through and wind our way through the early morning mud streets lined with tiny mud brick shops just yawning a good morning to another day of fasting in this month of Ramadan. A few lonely robed figures stroll through the red tinged early morning fog as we finally hit the pavement and pull up to the "bus station" on the side of the road opposite the air compressor and rickety wooden tables lined with various shapes and sizes of glass bottles filled with an assorted variety and mixture of fuels.
After paying the moto taxi-men and for our bus tickets, a young, turbaned man approaches and greets us. He is chewing on the typical Ramadan teeth cleaning stick. It's the son of the builder constructing our new junior high in Bere. He's on his way to Cameroon to study. I buy some bananas and then confirm his fasting by offering him one which he politely refuses.
We get on the bus and have two of the back four seats. Ndilbe takes one window and I take the other. Next to Ndilbe is another flowing robed, turbaned Muslim spitting occasionally out the window to keep from violating one of the Five Pillars by inadvertantly swallowing his saliva. A fully covered and veiled Muslim woman with dark gloves and stockings makes her way down the aile towards the back. A young Arab in front of me seems concerned that this obviously pious woman may be forced to sit by an obviously foreign and thus necessarily infidel white man. He shouts in Arabic to Ndilbe and the other man to move over which they do.
"Da bas adil" he responds nodding his approval as the deeply perfumed, modest example of virtue makes her way to the seat as far away from me as possible in the same row on a tiny bus. I'm relieved too.
The rest of the four hours passes quickly with a "Tale of Two Cities" and an occasional nap to keep me busy. We arrive without incident in the midst of a vusy market in N'Djamena.
I had planned to catch a taxi straight to the mission guest house, but decide to go with Ndilbe instead and try and arrange to see his nursing school and pay the school fees for the next year.
We walk down the crowded, noisy market street and turn the corner. We try and catch a taxi, but as we're putting our bags in the back, three people have got in the back seat and two in the front. There's only one space left. We start arguing as we have to travel together since I don't know how to get to Ndilbe's place. The woman in the back who'd stolen my spot doesn't budge and just smirks in reply. Finally, a young Muslim girl is kind enough to get out of the front seat leaving me crammed next to a very large woman occupying the other "half" of a tiny Peugot taxi passenger seat.
The trip is short and we take another road with a drainage ditch in the middle filled with small, bare-footed boys searching for something in the muck.
We open the gate to the house and enter the courtyard where we thankfully dump our bags under a shade tree and I thankfully relieve a very overworked bladder in the corner latrine.
The woman of the house, the wife of one of Chad's chief justices, generously lets me use her car which takes us on a bumby ride through the suburbs of N'Djamena to a Goudi looking three story structure where two secretaries sit doing their nails and gossiping in front of empty adminstration offices. Strike out!
I then get a call from Babana Benzaki who has arrived from Nigeria. A former Muslim, originally from Tchad, who converted to Christianity while studying in Nigeria and who is in his last year of public health at Babcock University, Benzaki has come to get the financial support voted on by the last AHI committee. We have many very interesting conversations about health, life and God. In the meantime, Kaitama shows up to get the letter I brought from his brother and Dieudonne shows up from work so we can discuss how I'm going to take off the lipoma from his neck tomorrow and how maybe in return he can let me borrow his car to pick up Sarah from the airport.
It also happens to coincide with the birthday of the four year old son of the Chief Justice who's mom had prepared a birthday feast even though she had invited no one. With nothing but a couple of boiled eggs and some bananas in my stomach since 4:30am I am more than happy to be part of the celebration! We finish off with a deep red Jus d'Osei (Hibiscus flower tea) and some strong, cold homemade Ginger drink.
I finally head to the guest house in the judge's Toyota Four-runner for a few hours rest before the 9pm arrival of my Danish wife.
I stand patiently outside the barred entrance to the baggage claim as various "important" people are let through while others are kept out. Finally, they seem to be letting down their guard and I slip through with the next batch let in.
I wait in front of the door leading to the immigration booths. I had glanced in quickly to see if I saw Sarah's red head without her seeing me and I succeeded. Finally, after an eternity, she appears at the door and looks at me with a shocked look and then starts laughing and saying "no, no, no, I can't believe it." Unfortunately for me, it's not a pleasant surprise at seeing me that has brought on this reaction but shock at seeing my recently smoothly shaven scalp that makes her incredulous. She is very cute with her long red hair pulled up in back with a few ringlets of curls escaping to the sides to run down her cheeks and forehead. I give her a warm hug and breath in the fresh smell of her hear as I kiss her head. It's good to have her back and definitely worth it all!
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